Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and visitors equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, UNESCO recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a select list of global cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it joins a worldwide network of over 400 metropolises across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "stands as proof of its profound food heritage and dynamic gastronomic culture," according to a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 cities worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this historic city comes as no surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, bustling, and diverse city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the global gaze for what has always characterized its essence: an immense devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a constant conversation from waking up until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and elevated to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on every corner, there are small establishments and stalls – little-known treasures that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in kulhads, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and involved. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though say that their children do not want to take up the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will motivate more people around the world to discover these tales and travel to the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
